La ricetta del cibo che dà “più dipendenza sul pianeta” è quella della focaccia al formaggio: stracchino tra due sottilissime sfoglie di pasta irrorate d’olio d’oliva. Sembra facile, ma la fugassa così riesce solo a Recco: su un tagliere tondo di legno, sgocciolante di forno, provoca il desiderio che dopo la focaccia ci sia ancora la focaccia. (Roberto Perrone)
Recco is a community of the province of Genova and not only known for its traditional facacciabread, but even for its similarities with the close town Camogli. Beside the cuisine, both towns have a similar natural environment. Recco is situated on the eastern riviera, between Camogli and Moneglia in a small bay of the Golfo Paradiso and borders with the villages of Sori and Bogliasco in the west, two small towns, only a few kilometers from the regional capital Genova.
In the eastern part Recco is separated from the town Rapallo only by the promontory of Portofino the marine protected area and the marvelous village Santa Margherita. Recco and the area of the Golfo Paradiso are known for the beauty of their valleys Fontanabuona, Petronio, Graveglia, Sturla and d’Aveto. All those valleys have access to the sea and to the mountains, which makes them tourist destinations of international importance.
How to get there
Recco is a famous seaside town and is situated only 30 minutes from Genova and five minutes from Camogli and is one of the first villages of the Golfo Paradiso. The larger harbors, are Camogli and San Fruttuoso, which are connected by the shipping company „Servizio marittimo del Tigullio“ with the most important centers as Sestri Levante, Lavagna, Chiavari and connected by the shipping company „Consorzio Liguria“ with the harbor of Genova.
This service is offered all year long, but is increased in the summer months from Easter to the end of september. The ferries go from Cinque Terre to Recco, Sori and Camogli and with sunshine bring unforgettable memories in an incomparable biodiversity with rich flora and fauna.
For national flights the closest airport is „aeroporto Cristoforo Colombo“ (airport Genova-Sestri). All tourists from abroad should not worry about the distances of the airports Malpensa, Orop al Serio (BG) or Roma Ciampino. From there it is possible to take a shuttle bus to the train station and go on by train or catch directly a bus in the direction of Genova.
All those arriving from nord, Milan, Brescia or Verona can take the highways A1 and A 4 in the direction of Genova – Livorno until the exit Recco. From Rome it is necessary to take the A12 in the direction of Livorno and change close to Viareggio to the A11. The first intersection before changing on the country road Aurelia is La Spezia, but even the towns of Pisa, La Spezia and Genova, many directories lead to the destination.
All those arriving from Milan need to change in Genova Brignole or Genova Principe and go on a regional train in the direction of La Spezia until the station of Recco.
From Rome or Florence the fast trains of Trenitalia called Freccia with changes in La Spezia and Rapallo and from Florence with change in Pisa offer the possibility to travel at moderate prices. Travelling by train has not only the advantage to be able to relax during the trip, but if you dont’t have much luggage it is possible to make stops on the way and visit some ligurian towns already before arriving in destination. One week is enough to get a first impression of taste, history, tradition and landscape.
How to move about
The eastern part of the region Liguria is not only in spring, but even in summer an ideal holiday destination and ideal for trips in bicycle in the bordering areas of Recco, between Camogli and Sori. But even traveling by car, it is possible to enjoy the beauty of the landscape. The villages of Tigullio are all similar in their size and construction.
Their centers develop from the old town with the parish circularly to the sea and to the beach. All those who are interested in architecture and would like to discover the old farmhouses and rose windows of the churches should start walking with a camera.
All those who love the sea and the cliffs and the steep coast of the protected marine area of Portofino, should take the boat.
Furthermore as on the island Eba it is possible to rent quads and motorcycles and go for a trip to the woods of San Fruttuoso or to the gypsy settlement of Santa Margherita. The bus association of the province (atp) connects Recco to Rapallo, Genova and Santa Margherita. A 4 zone ticket costs 1.50 Euro, and 1.50 Euro, in case the given kilometer limit is exceeded. As in La Spezia the zone ticket offers the possibility to take several means of transport and to avoid parking problems.
A bit of history...
Although Recco was inhabited already in ancient times, but the village was founded by the Romans under the name Recina (or Ricina).The village developed quickly to an important Castra on the Via Aurelia. Around the late middleage begins the ascension of the Churches and later the construction of the first pieve, medieval parish churches, characteristic for the area. In the 12th century the town falls under the rule of the republic. Under the rule of Genova, Recco becomes Captaincy thank to the skillful artisans in the ship construction. Despite the brutal Saracen raids between Genova and Rapallo, Recco is able to resist and economy starts to flourish.
After years of navigation to islands and continents, the 2nd world war destroys the foundations of a small and hospitable village and degrades completely its settlement and most important historic monuments.
Recco is named after the river of the same name located in the high valley, on the hill Caprile, near the main road, and flows on Mount Uscio from which descends and forks. The proximity to fresh water allows nesting of several species of birds among the most detail, from the blackcap jay, without disdaining nests of hawks almost at sea level. Valicandone the ridge you can get up to Fontanabuona valley, in the hinterland of Tigullio, also known for slate quarries and for a long time been a fief of the dynasty of Fieschi. Arriving at a height of nearly one thousand meters, is sheltered from the cold winds coming from the north and northeast, factor, together with the presence of the sea, which makes the mild climate throughout the year, at the foothills of the nearby towns, including Recco . While the Val Fontanabuona is the archetype of the foothill landscape, the Regional Natural Park of Portofino is the one that is closest to the lush nearby, without diminishing the wild forests close to the city. The trails are evictions and clean and not at all hard to practice even for the uninitiated, especially in the morning, armed with backpack and lunch, you could spend a pleasant afternoon and everything new that does not include swimming in the sea. The project was born in the thirties, the assumption of a driveway linking to Camogli via Santa Margherita to Portofino.
The vegetation, as in much of the east coast, is tenaciously Mediterranean, giving space to small patches of hazel and hornbeam in the most north and pine, holm oak and strawberry trees by the sea on the clay cliffs. Despite the east coast is certainly steeper than the area to the west, for example, include the caves of Portovenere and the Cinque Terre steeper the slope, the bay of Recco, lies in a long loop of fine sand, which is served by the most comfortable facilities bathing. High-impact (but you have to gear up to suit and possibly have time with the consent of the management of the park outside the zone of protection called C) is the immersion in the segment of the sea below the promontory of Portofino. Activities are prohibited hunting of any kind, but with a good underwater camera you can take a still picture of a souvenir Posidonia Oceanica, or the vast grasslands of gorgonians. Between Camogli and Portofino, in the bay of San Fruttuoso, fifteen kilometers deep monitors the currents the Christ of the Abyss, a bronze statue of about two and a half meters in height deliberately placed on the seabed from an idea by Duilio Marcante.
Places of interest
The architectural styles, which have passed through the Golfo Paradsio for centuries are various and represented in buildings of the Romance, Gothic, Baroque, Victorian architecture and Rationalism. The abbey of San Fruttuoso at Capodimonte in the bay of Camogli, even called „monstica“ is a unique example of medieval architecture and reflects the roman concept of church. The abbey can be reached only by sea or a small path, descending from Monte Portofino. The Christ of the Abyss (Italian: “Il Cristo degli Abissi”) is a submerged bronze statue located in the sea in front of the abbey of San Fruttuoso, close to the wonderful beach. Notevoli le ville del genovese, la principale quella di Negrotto Cambiaso, ad Arenzano, immersa nel parco della Serra Liberty – commissionata dalla Marchesa del luogo, una delle più grandi d’Europa e sovente promotrice delle principali manifestazioni fioristiche regionali. Sempre a Camogli il Castello della Dragonara (o Castel Dragone) richiama i dettami dei forti del XII secolo, in posizione elevata rispetto alla vicina basilica di Santa Maria Assunta An itinerary through Genoa’s magnificent public parks, born of the romantic spirit of the 19C: Villa Durazzo Pallavicini, around 70 acres of parkland stretching over the hills and housing the Botanical Gardens and Liguria’s Archaeological Museum; Villa Doria Pamphili, which houses the Naval Museum; Villa Brignole Sale in the Albaro district; and Villa Brignole Sale Duchessa di Galliera with its magnificent Italian gardens Even the villas of Genoa are worth being seen. The most important is Negrotto Cambiaso, in Arenzano, surrounded by a magnificent park with a secessionpavilion, which has been built on behalf of the marchioness Matilda Negrotto Cambiaso. Castello della Dragonara or Castel Dragone in Camogli reminds of a fortresses from the XII century. The Castello lies a little bit higher than the near Basilika Santa Maria Assunta. The solid walls make of the fortress a real burg above the sea and offers a breathtaking view of the surroundings. The aquarium was closed in 1999 and now exhibitions and events are held inside. The church of the saint Giovanni Battista in Piazza San Giovanni Bono in Recco is base of the vicar Recco-Uscio-Camogli, diocese of Genua. The old church was completely destroyed by bombs during the war and the new building on its place, was finished in may 1951. The face was made of travertine and next to the church a new clock tower was built.
Furthermore we to mention the march from Recco to Pontdilegno, a famous skiing region with the slope of Passo del Tonale, destination for the participants after a long walk (about 334 km) crossing the appenin and passing the villages of Iseo and Edolo, where a palm festival is organized for the twin cities. It is an agricultural festival of the comuinty Torrio, province of Piacenza. Lots of agiturismi and Bed and Breakfast with sea view offer attractions as covered swimming pools and farms for kids.
Accommodation, tourism and events
Recco is not only know for its cuisine, but even for its beautiful landscape. It is possible to fill up with iodine ( be careful of the sun, since the solar radiation in summer is very high) on the beach called Spiaggi dei frati. All those who do not like salt water can enjoy the open air pool Sant’Anna, which is training base for the water polo team Pro Reccco. The unique combination of sea and mountains, offers endless possibilities for trekking and cycling.
On the Via Aurelia athletes can enjoy wonderful panoramic views while they exercise.
In the middle of pine trees in the area of the regional park of Portofino, the quiet trails with green surroundings are characterized by steep slopes.
In the last editions we have already mentioned the Golfo Paradiso, for this reason we prefer to cut short.
Driving on the state street through the hills and the sun sets with the amazing colors of the sea , makes thinking about the infinity, represented by the landscape and the smell of the sea which lingers until the town center. There is no place on the Golfo Paradiso, which do not give us marvelous sunsets and fascinating colors.
Gastronomy is another important element in Recco. The use of aromatic herbs and Mediterranean ingredients, bring out the unique taste of local dishes.
We would like you to get to know the famous Focaccia of Recco: the authentic taste is recognized only by its inhabitants, people who were born and grown up in Recco and surroundings. The reason is the most important ingredient the Prescinseua, a cheese, which gives the dish its characteristic taste
The Prescinseua is made of fresh milk, adding rennet and cream. The perishability is the reason why this kind of chees. is used only in traditional kitchens.
The Stracchino has a similar taste and is often used instead.
The original recipe of the 14th century is well hidden. The proximity to France and the abundance of the resource explain why fish is the second important element in Reccos cuisine.
Anchovies, gilthead seabream and all kind of whitefishes, which are easily digestible and low in fat, are prepared in different ways, using fresh vegetables from the garden as swiss chard, savoy cabbage, artichokes and olive oil, which is the most important ingredient. The jam and tasteful cheese, as the wines from the small local producers need to be mentioned not only for culinary but even for historical aspects.Those traditions are going back several centuries, to the times of feudalism.
Real Estate market
Regarding the real estate market it is necessary to divide the town in different areas:
- semi central area/ coast, Polanesi, Mulinetti, Megli.
- apartment unit from € 3.900 to 5.700 euro/sqm
Low cost apartments from 3100 to 4300 euro/ sqm
- villas and and one family houses from € 6700 to 9700/ sqm
- boxes from € 2600 to 3900 euro/ sqm
Covered parkings from € 2500 to 3500/ sqm
- not covered parkings from € 2000 to 3000/ sqm
Recco center from via Cavour and via Assereto bis until the highway bridge
- Apartment units from from € 2700 to 2900 euro/ sqm
- low cost apartments from € 2100 to 3100 euro/ sqm
- villas and and one family houses from € 4700 to 6900 euro/ sqm
- boxes from € 2800 to 4200 euro/ sqm
- covered parkings from € 2600 to 3900 euro/ sqm
- not covered parkings from € 2300 to 3400 euro/ sqm
The so called gulf of paradise is situated in an unique and strategic position for foreign investors.
It is not for from the most important airports and very close to all attractions and services of the region Liguria. Furthermore the French coast can be reached by car in only 2 hours.
For all those who purchase properties in this area, it will be a perfect investment for future without any risks or dangers.
Recco is situated in the center of an important cultural outpost and seems to be hugged by Genoa and La Spezia. On the one hand the town is devoted to the pathos of the capital and the socialite life of Santa Margherita and offers exclusive beach resorts, similar to those of Savona. On the other hand Recco reflects the poor character of the extreme east with pine tree woods growing on the cliffs.
The town is not far from Chiavari and Sestri Levante, which should be commended for its amazing flower beds around the bay Baia delle Favole . The gulf which is even called golfo paradiso (paradise gulf) is the most important element of Recco and surroundings.